Pest Control In Wigan - Standish Property Maintenance & Pest Control

Advice for pet flea control

Flea Identification

Known for biting humans, the Cat Flea is most common. The Bird Flea, followed by the Dog Fleas, are less common. There are Human Fleas which are much rarer. All require Professional flea control.

- Appearance – Adult fleas are tiny (2mm) wingless insects. They have flattened red-brown bodies. With legs designed for jumping covered in spines.
- Life cycle
  - A parasitic insect, fleas live on warm-blooded animals.
  - Females lay eggs after feeding on the infested animal. Over their two-year life span they can, they can lay up to 1000 eggs. Eggs are laid on the floor or the animal’s bedding and after several days develop into larvae.
  - Larvae live in the bedding of the host and feed on skin, feathers and the blood-rich faeces of the adult flea. Once fully grown, the larvae spin well camouflaged silken cocoons called Pupa.
  - The fully developed adult flea remains cocooned until it senses the vibrations of a potential host. Only then does it emerge to feed on the blood of the infected animal.
  - This complete life cycle takes about a month in the summer.

Disease

There is little evidence that fleas spread disease in the UK. Although, flea bites can cause irritation. Differing both in the degree of reaction and time taken to react.

Signs of a Flea Infestation

Pets constantly scratching is likely to be the first sign. This can be confirmed in light coloured animals by brushing back the hair. In dark coated breeds it may be better to comb the animal over a sheet of paper to highlight any flea droppings as they fall. The identity of the black specks may be confirmed by adding a few drops of water if they turn red, your pet has fleas.

You might spot bites on you or family members, usually around ankles and legs. In humans, flea bites can produce an irritating and allergic reaction. The typical symptom of a flea bite is a small red spot about 5mm in diameter.

If you have an active infestation, you may see fleas jumping in your carpet and furniture.

The important bit WHAT NOT TO DO!

- Use flea bombs – Flea bombs are not an effective method of flea control. The pesticides released do not penetrate the carpets or other fibres where the flea eggs and larvae are likely to be hiding. Using a flea bomb can put your family and pets at risk due to the chemical residue that remains after use and should only be used in extreme circumstances where there is a massive flea infestation.
- Use cheap pet treatments – Advantage and Frontline are both the recommended flea treatments for Cats and Dogs by Vets. There are many others that are known to cause suffering to your pets detailed all over the internet.
- Ignore it – it won’t go away and it will get worse. Call a professional and treat you pet.

What to do?

For a flea infestation, we strongly recommend you contact a professional pest control company. Standish Pest Control will have the technical knowledge and access to a range of professional use insecticides which are not available to the public.

It’s difficult to prevent your pets from getting fleas. However, there are some things you can do to reduce your chances of getting them:

- Treat the cause –In liquid or tablet form buy a well-publicised and recommended treatment specific to your pet, not the cheapest.
- Vacuum – Before an insecticide treatment, clear as much floor space as possible to ensure that treatment is as thorough as possible. Vacuuming all areas helps to remove any debris, eggs, larvae and adult fleas. The vibration of the vacuuming also stimulates adults to hatch from their cocoons. Removing the dust collection chamber outside the house into your wheelie bin. Wash the collector with hot soapy water, again do this outside.
- Wash bedding – Collect all bedding, throws, rugs and clothing and wash them in soapy water – washing liquid will do. The soapy water is known to kill the eggs, larvae, pupae and adults.
- Treat the symptom – 95% of fleas live in the home rather than on your pet. Treating your home for fleas with a professional grade residual insecticide, either as a liquid spray or powder. Applied to all floor surfaces, soft furnishings and pet bedding. Not vacuuming or washing bedding for at least two weeks, will ensure the residual insecticide will have ample opportunity to work.

Flea control sprayer and product

What caused the infestation?

One of the most common ways is from your pet playing outside or taking a walk. When your pet walks through or lies in leaf litter or grass clippings, fleas can jump up on your pet’s fur.

Feral cats that may be roaming the neighbourhood or wild animals such as rabbits, hedgehogs’, badgers or foxes can be carriers of fleas.

Kennels are another perfect place for your pet to pick up fleas. So, treatment before and after their visits should ensure they don’t pick any up and bring them into your home.

How long will it take?

Our flea control treatment will remain active for many weeks. Its residual life will vary depending upon the cleanliness and nature of the surface to which it is applied and how often you vacuum or mop the areas. We recommend its left for a minimum of 2 weeks before any cleaning commences.

Is the pesticide harmful to me, my kids or my pets?

Our wet treatment is safe to humans and animals once dry. Treated premises can be re-occupied by adults, children, pets and other animals once the sprayed surfaces have dried.

How can we prevent it happening again?

- Treat all the pets in your home regularly with a suitable flea treatment.
- Regularly wash your pet’s bedding on a hot wash.
- Use a long-acting household spray regularly.

Tip: Pets with fleas can also develop tapeworm, which is carried by fleas. Pets groom and swallow fleas with tapeworm eggs inside as part of the tapeworm lifecycle and these then develop into worms in your pet’s gut. If your pet has had fleas, use a worming treatment that covers for tapeworms as well as flea treatments.

Never use a flea treatment for dogs on your cat – this can be fatal. Many flea treatments for dogs contain permethrin. This chemical can be fatal to cats. Make sure you use a flea treatment specifically for cats and check all household flea sprays for permethrin before you use them around your cat.

If you think you’ve got a flea infestation, have read this article and still want help or advice give us a call for a friendly chat. We will guide you through what to do and how much flea control will cost. Check out our contacts page for details.

Japanese knotweed

Japanese knotweed (JKW) is a plant that can grow and spread quickly from Spring to Autumn. During the Winter months, the plant dies back leaving dead bamboo-like stems exposed. It emerges from its roots called rhizomes to grow to over 2m tall. Successful eradication takes several years requires with chemicals treatment being the most successful. Recent changes in legislation covers its control.

Thick green and red coloured bamboo type stems

What is Japanese knotweed?

European adventurer Philipp Franz von Siebold is documented as transporting JKW from a Japanese volcano to Leiden in the Netherlands. In 1850, a specimen from this plant was donated by Von Siebold to the Royal Botanic Gardens, at Kew.

Japanese Knotweed has large heart shaped leaves.

Commonly known as Japanese knotweed or Fallopia Japonica, has a bamboo like green / red coloured stem with large green heart shaped leaves. Starting in the Spring Japanese knotweed grows very quickly, flowers (inflorescence) July / August and drops leaves (senecence) in September / October. Above ground it fully dies back over the winter. They can remain dormant for several months or longer. The Rhizomes (roots) lie dormant until the following year or for many years. The creamy-white flowers produced in late summer and early autumn fortunately cannot pollinate which is great news in regards its control.

After Glyphosate treatment Japanese Knotweed forms smaller rosettes

What is the problem?

Japanese knotweed can regenerate from very small sections of leaf, stem or rhizomes. I have been to a job were the customer had used a strimmer to try and kill some Japanese knotweed. Unfortunately for him it was able to regenerate from most of the mess he had caused.

The Legal standing.

Under the provisions made within Schedule 9 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981, it is an offence to cause Japanese knotweed to grow in the wild. Even pulling up shoots or stems and putting them in your council green waste bin is an offence!

The juvenile Japanese Knotweed has thin stems but the mature plant has thick hollow bamboo like stems

Fly tipping should be reported to The Environment Agency, free-phone number 0800 807060.

Since 2013, the seller of a property is required to state if Japanese knotweed (Fallopia japonica) is present on their property through a TA6 form – the property information form used for conveyancing. Your conveyancer or solicitor will be able to provide full legal advice.

If you are buying, the presence of Japanese knotweed will be detailed on the TA6 form. This often results in mortgage lenders requiring assurances that it will be eradicated before agreeing the funds. A treatment plan by a Standish Property Maintenance& Pest Control, backed by a transferable guarantee, is usually sufficient. It is most common for this plan to be provided and paid for by the seller before the purchase is completed.

The lack of a treatment plan can result in delays, increased costs later in the buying process, or even a possible misrepresentation claim after the sale, so a proactive approach to the infestation will help avoid problems.

Stem injection herbicide treatment

New legislation

An amendment to the ‘Anti-Social Behaviour, Crime and Policing Act 2014’ includes invasive non-native plants such as Japanese knotweed. It is not illegal to have Japanese knotweed in your garden. However, you should aim to control this invasive non-native plant to prevent it becoming a problem for your neighbours. If it has a “detrimental effect of a persistent or continuing nature on the quality of life of those in the locality”, the legislation could be used to enforce its control and property owners may be prosecuted.

Before treatment

When Japanese knotweed infestations occurring on property boarders, we would always suggest that you speak with your neighbours. They may already be taking action to control the Japanese knotweed. An informal approach usually helps ease the tension of what can be for some a worrying problem. If this fails to work contacting your council to talk about action under the legislation would be the next step.

You could consider control yourself for a small, isolated infestation. However, Standish Property Maintenance & Pest Control are skilled and experienced at control, ensure eradication and can advise you on how best to tackle your problem.

For more information see The Environment Agency Information Note: Japanese knotweed Control

Non-chemical control

Digging out Japanese knotweed without professional help, creates problems over disposal. Japanese knotweed has been classed as ‘controlled waste’ under the Environmental Protection Act 1990. Requiring disposal at licensed landfill sites. Registered waste carriers must be used to safely remove the weed from site.

On no account should Japanese knotweed be included with normal household waste or put out in green waste collection schemes.

Weedkiller control

It usually takes at least three to four seasons to eradicate JKW using high strength herbicide. At Standish Property Maintenance & Pest Control we have access to Professional Grade Herbicides that may reduce this period. The product label will state the use is for Japanese Knotweed. Situation dependant we either spray wipe or stem inject a high concentrate of Glyphosate to eradicate the whole plant.

Japanese Knotweed can grow up to 7ft tall

In a few cases resilient sections of rhizome may continue to produce some leaf growth known as leaf rosettes. Mop up treatments must be carried out on these to prevent further infestations. They are very different in appearance to the normal plant and it is essential that this regrowth is treated.

JKW a week after Glyphosate treatment via stem injection

Bear in mind that the home gardener will not get an insurance backed guarantee without using a professional company for the control of Japanese knotweed. This may be important if planning to sell your property in the near future or if a neighbour is threatening litigation from the spread of knotweed from your property. It is often less expensive than most people worry about as documented in the press.

If you have any questions, queries or concerns please don’t hesitate to contact us for help or advice. Its always quickest to call us on 07920001980, but if you have a lot to ask or require some detail use our ‘contact‘page.

Wasp Nest removal Wigan

Wasps in abundance

Over the last few weeks we have carried out more Wasp Nest removal in Wigan than we thought possible. Now that could be down to several factors. We have been doing this for 10 years so pretty well established. From Wigan Council’s Good Trader Scheme we have won several awards for great feedback and customer service. Our social medial presence and the customer reviews we receive are bigger and better than ever. The weather has also been perfect for wasps to be on the increase.

Biggest nests in August / September

One thing for sure is that the Common Wasp really is thriving. Unfortunately, it seems to be more and more in and around our homes! I truly believe that this is due to a lack of its natural habitat as we expand our housing estates. Another thing that seems to be getting bigger is the sheer number of wasps in a single nest and the physical size each nest is growing to by the end of the season.

What a whopper

Wasps in the loft

Small football sized nests in the boxing of a fascia and soffit area or hanging in a loft space or shed are relatively simple to remove. But imagine a hot summers day of 20 degrees plus outside and you’ve found a wasp nest in your loft. So you call Standish Pest Control to help you get your holiday suitcases down. When they arrive to remove the troublesome wasp nest in your loft the find the loft full of clutter. Andy needs to wear an all-encompassing bee suit and gloves. Up to 3 layers of clothing underneath to protect from the long stinger. The loft is not only cluttered it hasn’t got floor boards. Its raging hot up there like a furnace!

Shed roof nest, Wasp Nest removal in Wigan

The lull before the swarm

Approaching the nest cautiously, Andy of Standish Pest Control is now lied prone crawling closer to the wasp nest. He is blocking much of the poor lighting making the job that bit harder. Sweat runs down his face making his eyes sting. Trying not to disturb the nest until the last second he positions his catch bucket under the nest. Pressurising the insecticide applicator ready to cover the nest before the alarm goes off and he’s covered by a swarm of angry wasps. He dusts the outer skin of the nest, the entrance and surrounding areas. This helps knock down those first out of the nest before it’s captured.

Extractor fan nest, Wasp Nest removal in Wigan

Removal of a wasp nest

Quickly making a grab for the removal tool and releasing the wasp nest from its purchase on the roof lining. Andy expertly catches it in the bucket, swiftly sealing the lid on to prevent escape. The remaining wasps will receive the ‘good news’ in due course. Any remnants of the nest are collected by hand or using a litter picker if out of reach.

Swam of angry wasps

Getting out of the loft is for a pest controller as precarious as getting in. The only difference is he has a bucket of super angry wasps under his arm. And a group of their mates swarming around his head!

CCTV Nest

What to expect

Once out of the loft with all materials and tools recovered back to the van. Andy the pest controller takes off all his PPE and downs a load of cold thirst quenching juice and takes a few minutes to recover. A full explanation of the removal of the wasp nest and what the customer should expect to encounter in the coming hours and days.

Velux window, Wasp Nest removal in Wigan

What happens next

The bucket containing the treated wasp nest will stay sealed for 24 hours to ensure all wasp die off without stinging anyone. The nest can then be incinerated or composted.

Golf ball nest, Wasp Nest removal in Wigan

Other place you can find wasps

Removal from a roof or gutter line is a similar affair, the main differences are the open air and working at height. But for Andy a loft is far harder and more daunting a task due to the enclosed nature making escape, injury or damage more likely.

Wasps under the roof tiles Wasp Nest removal in Wigan

What happens if……?

“I dread to think what would happen if I were to pass out or go into anaphylactic shock whilst in a hot loft”, fortunately Andy’s daughter Megan works alongside him and has the means to help or get help should it be required. Should any damage occur whilst in the loft, up a ladder or on the roof Standish Property Maintenance have both the means and the insurance to correct. After spending close to 20 years in the roofing industry Andy is comfortable both on a ladder or roof. Priding himself removing wasp nests with the highest degree of accuracy.

Wasps in the valleys Wasp Nest removal in Wigan

What to do:

If you find that you need a Wasp Nest removal in Wigan, you should not try and tackle it yourself, especially at this time of year when they’re getting very large. Contact Standish Property Maintenance & Pest Control in Wigan on 07920001980. They will help carry out the Wasp Nest removal in Wigan.

There’s a rat in my garden, what am I…

How can I be sure that it’s a rat?

Rats are medium-sized, long-tailed rodents. Generally, when someone discovers a large rodent, it’s commonly labled a rat, if it is smaller, its suspected to be a mouse.

Where might you find rats around the garden?

- Compost heaps – attract rats because they are warm and contain food. Check lid and base of composters for holes.
- Decking – the edges of decked areas for signs of damage from gnawing and burrowing.
- Drains – damaged covers or holes dug next to the drain covers.
- Garages – check for gaps around door frames or holes gnawed at the bottom of wooden doors.
- Sheds – entrances to burrows around the edges of sheds and out buildings.
- Vegetation – look for rat holes around tree and shrub roots, in overgrown vegetation.

What are the signs of a rat infestation?

Rats are most active during the night so often easier to spot the signs of a rat infestation than see the rat. Signs that could indicate that you have a potential rat problem are as follows:

- Burrows – rats dig extensive burrow systems for shelter, food storage and nesting.
- Gnaw Marks – Simliar to our finger nails, rodents teeth continuously grow. So they have to keep them sharp and short by gnawing.
- Nests – shredded materials are used to make nests.
- Rat Droppings – are dark brown in a tapered, like a large grain of rice.
- Smear Marks – Grease and dirt from their bellies leaves smudges on surfaces.

If you have spotted any of the signs mentioned, we recommend acting quickly to ensure the potential infestation doesn’t grow any bigger.

How quickly can rats reproduce?

The rat can breed throughout the year if conditions are suitable, with a female producing up to five litters of 7 – 14 pups a year. The gestation period is only 21 days. They reach sexual maturity in about five weeks.

How many descendants could a pair of rats produce in three years?

The answer: nearly half a billion. That shudder-worthy fact comes courtesy of pest control experts Rentokil, who put together an interactive projected labelled “The Rise of The Rats” to visually show just how crazy this cycle can be if left unchecked. (source: qsrmagazine.com)

What problems can be caused by Rats?

Rats are vectors of a wide range of disease-causing bacteria, viruses, parasites and worms. They also carry many diseases through their own parasites such as fleas, ticks, lice and mites. Some of the common diseases spread by rats are:

Leptospirosis (Weil’s disease) is spread in the urine of infected animals, most commonly rats. You can catch it from:

- soil or freshwater (such as from a river, canal or lake) containing infected pee gets in your mouth, eyes or a cut, usually during activities like kayaking, outdoor swimming or fishing.
- you touch an infected animal’s blood or flesh, usually from working with animals or animal parts.
- It’s very rare to get leptospirosis from pets, other people or bites. It’s rare in the UK.

Salmonellosis s a symptomatic infection caused by bacteria of the Salmonella type. The most common symptoms are diarrhea, fever, abdominal cramps, and vomiting. Symptoms typically occur between 12 hours and 36 hours after exposure, and last from two to seven days.
Bubonic plague is an infection of the lymphatic system, usually resulting from the bite of an infected flea, Xenopsylla cheopis (the rat flea). The bacteria enter through the skin through a flea bite and travel via the lymphatic vessels to a lymph node, causing it to swell. Several antibiotics are effective for treatment. Without treatment, plague results in the death of 30% to 90% of those infected typically within ten days.
Toxoplasmosis a parasitic disease. Infections with toxoplasmosis usually cause no obvious symptoms in adults. Occasionally, people may have a few weeks or months of mild, flu like illness such as muscle aches and tender lymph nodes. In small numbers eye problems may develop.

How do we reduce the infestation and prevent its return?

On our initial visit we investigate your findings and develope a treatment plan that usually involves traps or rodenticides. We also aim to reduce any causes of their arrival at your property such as remove food or harborages. This includes blocking up of access routes or burrows and improvements in house keeping.

Safe use of Pesticides

In 2015 the HSE in consultation with the Campaign for Responsible Rodenticed Use (CRRU) launched the UK Rodenticide Stewardship Scheme. The scheme aims to restrict the availability of rodenticide products ensuring that they are used responsibly.

The rodenticide scheme rules will apply to anyone who is buying or selling rodenticides over a 1.5kg pack size.

A bait box showing the partially consumed bait and inspection date plaque

Is the rodenticied likely to hurt my pets, kids or customers?

Rodenticide baits are not only poisonous for rodents but can be lethal to any mammal or bird that ingests them or feeds on a poisoned rodent. Using rodenticide baits puts pets at high risk of becoming ill or dying either through direct ingestion or by eating poisoned rodents .

All rodenticide bait or traps should be in a lockable container that only allows access by the target rodent. Our customers are given a clear understanding of what the bait we are using and how to react should they suspect their pet or child has injested rodenticide.

If you suspect that your pet has been exposed to rodenticides, take immediate action and contact your vet. A comprehensive list of pesticide safety data sheets is here.

How can we help you?

If you have found signs you think are potentially a rat infestation, don’t worry we’re here to help. Call or contact us for a fast response to get identification or treatment underway quickly.

Don’t let the Bedbugs bite

What are Bedbugs?

Bedbugs are small insects that are found in furniture or bedding. Bedbug bites can leave the victim feeling very itchy and there may be painful swelling. Adult bedbugs are oval, wingless insects, which are about 5-7 mm long.

An adult Bedbug on the pillow

They have a flattened body which allows them to hide in cracks and crevices. Unfed, they’re pale yellow / brown in colour, but after biting a host and full of blood, they become larger in size and red / brown colour.

Bedbugs have biting mouthparts that form an elongated sucking tube used to pierce the host’s skin. With three pairs of skinny legs that have tarsal claws for clinging on during feeding.

How can I check if it’s bedbugs?

Adult Bedbugs are around 5mm long and are dark yellow, red or brown in appearance. Common symptoms of an Bedbug infestation include:

- - Bites – on exposed areas like the face, neck and arms
  - Blood spots – from the bites, droppings or from squishing a bedbug

What is the life cycle of a Bedbug?

- - Lifespan usually 4-6 months
  - Females lay average of 2-3 eggs per day in cracks and crevices.
  - Eggs hatch after about 12 – 14 days at >23˚C
  - Newly hatched bedbugs feed on the blood of vertebrates and during each change.
  - There is a total of 6 life stages.
    - Egg > 1^st instar > 2^nd instar > 3^rd instar > 4^th instar > Adult

Do they spread disease?

No evidence exists of bedbugs being vectors of infections or diseases to people. However, Bedbug activity can cause considerable distress. Reaction to their bites varies from little or no reaction to severe reactions or sleepless nights.

What do they eat?

Bedbugs bite to take blood meals hence why we see them as pests. Blood provides them with the nutrients necessary for life and reproduction. Commonly they prefer human hosts, but in their absence, bedbugs will feed on a variety of rodents and birds.

Where do bedbugs live?

During the daytime, bedbugs hide in dark and dry places found around household furniture. floorboards and between mattresses and beds. At night, bedbugs crawl from their hiding places to feed, after which they return to digest their blood meal.

How much of a nuisance are Bedbugs?

Their preference for human hosts, leads bedbugs to live in close proximity to people. Consequently, causing substantial nuisance through their blood-feeding habits. These bites cause itching and redness for most people.

How do you treat bedbug bites?

Bedbug bites can be very itchy and there may be red painful swelling locally. A severe allergic reaction known commonly as anaphylactic shock is also possible but rare.

“Bedbug bites usually clear up on their own in a week or so.”

You can reduce itching and any swelling by covering with a cold compress. Ensure the affected area is kept clean. Avoid getting an infection by not scratching the bites

If the discomfort worsens, speak to a pharmacist about using a mild steroid cream. Although, antihistamines may help if the bites are very itchy and you’re unable to sleep.

Speak to a GP if the bites are still very painful, swollen or itchy after trying treatments from a pharmacist and / or the redness around the bites is spreading. You may have an infection and need treatment with antibiotics.

How can the infestation be treated?

Inspection –

- - Determine the extent and source of infestation.
  - Bed frame, bedside furniture and other furniture, electrical fittings and appliances, underneath carpet edges and skirting, wallpaper and paint if loose, curtains and any wall hangings.
  - Signs include the presence of live bedbugs, cast off nymphal cuticle, and hatched or unhatched eggs.
  - Small dark brown or black marks on the bed sheets or mattress.

Chemical Treatment –

- - A residual spray application to the floors, walls and furniture.
  - Targeted treatment of cracks and crevices.

The suggested treatment routine, shown below, utilises a mixture of insecticide groups and formulations, ensuring an integrated approach to control and resistance management.

- - 1st Treatment – initial treatment
  - 2nd Treatment – after 2 weeks
  - 3rd Treatment – after 4 weeks

It’s unlikely you’ll be able to get rid of bedbugs yourself. They show some resistance to some insecticides so it’s always best to contact your Standish Pest Control.

Do’s

- - Wash affected bedding and clothing – using a 60deg and tumble dry on a hot setting for at least 30 minutes.
  - As an alternative to hot washing put affected clothing and bedding in a plastic bag in the freezer for 4 days.
  - Vacuum regularly – regular cleaning will help you spot and remove them.

Don’t

- - Keep clutter around your bed.
  - Bring second hand furniture indoors without carefully checking it first.
  - Take luggage or clothing indoors without checking it carefully if you’ve come from somewhere where you know there were bedbugs

Standish Pest Control in Wigan have the tools to treat the bedbug infestation in the safest way possible.

Our application of control measures in line with current best practices. We have Public Liability insurance, qualifications and experience that cover us to treat pest infestations accurately and efficiently.

Call to action

Quite often, we find our customers feel nothing short of overwhelmed by some of the work they need doing. We stop at nothing to explain thoroughly what needs doing. Describing what we will do it and ultimately what it will cost. We want to help you feel confident in us and the value of our work.

Rest assured that your problem won’t be the biggest we’ve seen or the smallest we’ve treated. We will be able to help, just need you to get in touch.

Call us on 07920001980 or use our contact page and tell us what the problem is.

Joke: When does a pregnant bed bug give birth? In the Spring.

Busy Buzzy Bumble Bees

What are Bees?

Bees are flying insects closely related to wasps and ants, known for their role in pollination, producing honey and beeswax. Bees are from the monophyletic lineage within the superfamily Apoidea and are presently considered a clade, called Anthophila.

Are bees protected in the UK?

The short answer is no.

The reasons why many people may think bees have legal protection are numerous, although this mistaken belief has been passed on for decades. With regard to bees, there’s no mention of bees in the Wildlife and Countryside act 1981.

There is a piece of legislation called the UK Biodiversity Action Plan (UK BAP) which was originally published in 1994. The aim of this document is to “conserve and protect existing biological diversity and to enhance it wherever possible.” This is a document that has been several times over the years and contains the UK BAP priority terrestrial invertebrate species list. Priority species and habitats are “those that have been identified as being the most threatened and requiring conservation action”.

Despite being on the UK BAP, those species are not afforded any specific legal protection. Hopefully that clears up the confusion about whether or not bees are protected by law.

However, we do go to great lengths to be ethical in our work. If a nest must be removed, we try to do this physically rather than chemically, following industry standards and best practices.

What is good about bees?

All sorts of fruit and vegetables are pollinated by honey bees, such as broccoli and squash, apples and almonds. Pollination is not just important for the food we eat directly, it’s as vital for the fruit and vegetables we eat, as it is for the vegetation used to feed the livestock we depend on for meat.

What is their life cycle?

A bee’s life cycle has four main distinct stages or phases, egg, larva, pupa and finally an adult.

Do they hibernate?

Bumble bees hibernate, honey bees do not. Although honey bees and bumble bees are very closely related, their winter behaviors are very different. A colony of honey bees will live throughout the entire winter, actively keeping the nest warm and safe. The queen bumble bees hibernate until spring.